Barong sculpture © Ingeborg Mehus

Indonesia is the world's largest archipelago, comprising of five main islands and a multitude of smaller archipelagos, with about 17,000 islands strung across the equator.

A rich history of kingdoms, conquests, colonialism, trade and natural disasters has bequeathed it with an exhilarating kaleidoscope of cultures and traditions, people, languages and religions, aspirations and problems, and the dramatic scenery of changing landscapes.

Unfortunately it is this very diversity of ethnic groups and religions that has put a country of such exotic natural resources to the test. Racial divides and fierce religious hostility, government corruption, uprisings, economic negligence and, more recently, terrorist attacks have been frequent blights on the Indonesian fabric of society. But it is also these diverse cultures that have given the country a splendid heritage of traditions and art, and for centuries it has been a magnet, constantly drawing thousands of people to its shores despite its turbulent nature. Its position along the Pacific 'ring of fire' contributes to its uneasiness; the country is prone to frequent earthquakes and volcanic eruptions.

Indonesia offers something for everyone. Sumatra has an untouched wilderness and a diversity of wildlife, highland tribes and unique architecture, wonderful resort-lined lakes and quaint hilltop towns. Java features steaming volcanoes, astonishing historical monuments, a sprawling capital city and traditional dance, music and art. The image of paradise is epitomised in Bali, an island of artistic people and elegant temples, stunning scenery, palm groves, beach resorts and diving. Further east, Komodo is the home to the world's largest lizard, the Komodo dragon.

It is a land of vigorous colour, of tensions and upheaval, but also of festivals and dancing, golden sunsets and friendly white toothy smiles.